Nail treatments are among the most popular beauty services, from gel and acrylic polish to BIAB technology and Japanese manicures.
While these options give nails a stylish look that lasts for weeks, their frequent use raises questions about their effect on nail and skin health.
These questions come at a time when a ban on a chemical used in some "gel" products has come into effect in the United Kingdom, following its ban in the European Union, bringing the debate about the safety of nail products back to the forefront.
Gel polish maintains its popularity thanks to its glossy finish and ability to resist chipping for several weeks. The polish is cured under a UV or LED lamp after lightly buffing the nail surface to ensure adhesion.
But nail care experts believe that the greatest danger does not necessarily lie in the gel itself, but rather in the way it is applied and removed.
Dunia Sharifi, founder of the nail care brand "SWANKY", warns that excessive filing of the nail surface can lead to damage, especially with the process being repeated at every salon visit.
Gel products also contain substances known as acrylates, which can cause allergic reactions in some people, especially when the uncured gel comes into contact with the skin. These allergic reactions may become permanent once they appear.
UV lamps have raised further concerns after a 2023 study found that the radiation they emit can damage skin cells in a laboratory setting. However, experts point out that exposure during infrequent nail treatments remains limited compared to repeated exposure to sunlight.
Some gel formulations use trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) to help the coating harden, and their use has been banned by the UK and the EU due to concerns about its potential impact on fertility.
Studies conducted on mice exposed to the substance showed problems in the reproductive system, while other research indicated its possible impact on the endocrine system.
But the ban on TPO does not mean that gel polish is unsafe, as many companies have begun to switch to TPO-free formulations.
BIAB, or "builder gel in a tube," has gained popularity as a more flexible and gentler alternative to acrylic. Its thick layer helps protect nails from impact and breakage, but it does not restore the natural nail's strength or treat its problems.
Sharifi explains that nails continue to grow under the "BIAB" layer, but repeated application and removal of the product, especially with excessive filing, may make them thinner, weaker, and more prone to breakage.
Acrylic is one of the most durable types of artificial nails, but it requires more intervention on the natural nail.
Repeated application and removal can weaken the nail layers and affect the keratin responsible for its strength. Leaving it on for extended periods can also trap moisture underneath, creating a favorable environment for bacterial growth.
Therefore, the method of application and removal is a key factor in minimizing damage, regardless of the type of treatment.
The "Japanese manicure" focuses on the natural nail, without colored polish or artificial nails. The technique involves buffing the nails with a mineral-rich paste, then using a powder containing beeswax to give them a natural shine.
Sharifi believes this option is suitable for those who wish to restore their nails to their natural appearance, noting that nails do not need to "breathe" as is commonly believed, because the visible part of them consists of dead cells.
What nails really need is gentle care, moisturizing, and enough time to grow.
Regardless of the type of treatment, experts advise avoiding contact of the products with the skin, using the appropriate lamp to fully set the gel, and not over-filing the nails or removing the products violently.
It is also advisable to choose TPO-free products, read the product ingredients, and not use products intended for professionals at home.
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