Highlife is now listed as a UNESCO intangible heritage site. This famous Ghanaian music emerged at the dawn of independence for the elites before being popularized later. Today, it is a major international recognition for one of West Africa's most influential musical traditions.
Under subdued lighting, the four young men of the group Kwan Pa play superimposed guitar melodies and catchy rhythms. Their live performance draws cheers and applause from a visibly delighted crowd, who wave white handkerchiefs overhead as revelers dance, sing and toast between bites.
"It’s like therapy", one client said with a laugh, as couples slid down the floor and strangers danced together, united by a sound that has shaped Ghanaian life for generations.
This electric ambiance took on a new dimension after Ghana's famous highlife music was included on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List this month, a major international recognition for one of the most influential musical traditions from West Africa.
UNESCO announced the decision on December 10, describing highlife as "a monumental expression of Ghana's musical genius, culture and global influence", paying tribute to the generations who have preserved and adapted this musical genre since the beginning of the 20th century.
For Asah Nkansah, leader of the group Kwan Pa (whose name means "the right path"), the chosen moment is symbolic.
"This news is just great", Nkansah told AFP. If we go back to the origins of highlife music, we arrive in September 1925. So, this year, in 2025, we celebrate 100 years of Ghanaian highlife music. "
At Zen Garden, this century-old tradition seems anything but distant. The band's palm wine-soaked Highlife tracks inspire spontaneous dancing, with customers singing the lyrics from memory and clapping the solos late into the night.
"Highlife is about almost everything: passion, love, society, everything", says Nkansah." Highlife music naturally has what we call content... it's not music for music's sake. "
Highlife influenced afrobeat and hiplife
UNESCO's listing places Highlife among the world's protected cultural treasures, an initiative that is expected to strengthen Ghana's cultural position and encourage investment in music preservation, tourism and the creative arts.
Layered guitars, brass sections and highlife narratives have shaped national identity for over a century, popularized by legends such as ET. Mensah, Nana Ampadu, Paapa Yankson, AB. Crentsil, Osibisa, Amakye Dede and Kojo Antwi, and influencing later movements such as hiplife and afrobeats.
For fans like Selina Doade, the appeal is deeply personal.
"For me, as a Ghanaian, highlife music tells our story. It affects all aspects of our society", she told AFP.
"When you're depressed, when you're happy, when you need inspiration, highlife music speaks to you. "
Conductor Nkansah believes that creativity helps win over a younger audience.
"We have to make a conscious effort to make them like our sound", he said.
"We choose the songs that young people like... then we adapt these melodies to our palm-wine rhythms... in doing so, we introduce them to Highlife.
He rejects claims that the genre is in decline. "In my opinion, highlife is not dying", Nkansah said.
"There will be ups and downs... I think we are getting back on track. "
At the national level, UNESCO officials view Highlife as a living heritage rather than a relic.
"This reflects the way of life of Ghanaians", said Professor Osman Damba Tahidu, Secretary General of the Ghana Commission for UNESCO.
"It is not just a museum relic, but a living product. "
"When it comes to sports, it’s Highlife. When it comes to funerals, it's Highlife... Even for food and festivals, it's Highlife", Tahidu said.
Back at the Zen Garden, as midnight approaches, the crowd doesn't seem ready to leave.
The handkerchiefs move again, the laughter bursts forth and the Highlife continues, anchored in the past, dancing confidently towards the future.
